Part Three
Aurela Kadriu: Was this what is now called the covered bazaar?
Zenun Çelaj: Now, where… no, not there, that’s further away. This is near the Assembly of Kosova. Do you know where the old post office used to be?
Aurela Kadriu: Yes.
Zenun Çelaj: The one that was bombed? So it was in that direction, at the old post office that was bombed, it started there, then since that time there was the korzo, the cars didn’t go through there. There were a few restaurants, bookshops, and on the left, there was a dentist, there was a, we used to call it the summer garden. These were there until recently, these that I mentioned.
Aurela Kadriu: What was the summer garden?
Zenun Çelaj: It was like a restaurant, but it had a garden. It was a restaurant, especially during the summer, not especially during the summer, but it worked mostly in summer, there were singers, they came from Serbia because back then there were no Albanians, they didn’t sing in restaurants (laughs).
Aurela Kadriu: Where did you live the first year you came here for school?
Zenun Çelaj: I started, firstly it was in a han. Do you know where Bajram Kelmendi Street is?
Aurela Kadriu: Yes, yes.
Zenun Çelaj: I think at that crossroad…
Aurela Kadriu: Where the mosque is?
Zenun Çelaj: No, further up, further up, very near Bajram Kelmendi’s house, if you know where it is. The road that stops the street that passes by Vellushe, in that area. Now that street connects the park with the school, where Rilindja used to be, at the museum…
Aurela Kadriu: At Sami Frashëri?
Zenun Çelaj: Yes, also Sami Frashëri but also the elementary school…
Aurela Kadriu: Elena Gjika?
Zenun Çelaj: Elena Gjika. So that crossroad, in the street upwards on the right there was a han. I slept there only in plans for years until I got the opportunity to move elsewhere. It was cheap, that’s why…
Aurela Kadriu: What was it called?
Zenun Çelaj: {Shrugs} I don’t know, we just called it han, I don’t know (laughs). Now something else was built there, I don’t what, on the corner. And then I found a place with a student of Shkolla Normale, two, they were from Millosheva, I forgot their names. Unfortunately it has been many years (laughs). Do you know where the Serbian church is? On the road to Gërmia?
Aurela Kadriu: Yes.
Zenun Çelaj: Where a gas station is, at the Chinese quarters as we used to call it, there’s a bakery on the corner…
Aurela Kadriu: Yes, yes, yes.
Zenun Çelaj: Now, behind that, there’s a building. There was a huge window and the landlord, a man from Pristina, he wouldn’t let us in through the front door, but we had to get in through the window to sleep there (laughs). It was covered in hay, with a blanket over it, and the pillows were also made out of hay and we slept there. Then we would come out of the windows, and we would close them and so on. In the meantime I got accepted in the dormitory, after, not long, a month or so. I was accepted thanks to Hasan Mekuli. He was a professor in Shkolla Normale and his authority had an effect.
Aurela Kadriu: What kind of neighborhood was this one in front of the Chinese quarters that you’re talking about?
Zenun Çelaj: Now, when you go upward after the Chinese quarters, you turn right at the nursing home, in front of it, there’s that bakery I mentioned, I don’t know what it’s called, Saranda I think…
Aurela Kadriu: Saranda.
Zenun Çelaj: I don’t know the name. Behind that bakery was this building. It’s there even now, it’s old.
Aurela Kadriu: What was it like back then because those are a few of the first buildings in the city.
Zenun Çelaj: Now look, those buildings used to be called the first block, there is also a kindergarten there on the right. I’m always talking if we’re going upwards. It was the first block… there were more intellectual people, there were many Serbians because they took the apartments in Pristina that were built by the state. I don’t know what the neighborhood was called. I know Serbians lived on the left, later as a journalist I lived there. Now it’s Meridian or I don’t know, a building covered in glass. Where the bus stop is. That street was very narrow, up to Gërmi. The road was cobbled up to Normale with stones, and it was narrow. Two cars couldn’t pass by there, there was no space.
Aurela Kadriu: Was there… I mean, for you, as people who came from other cities, did you go out to the city?
Zenun Çelaj: Back then in the dormitory there was… it was like a military regime. You couldn’t go out to the city anytime you wanted. You could go out one a week. One a week. We were allowed to go out once a week. On Sundays, because Saturday was a school day. But in the evenings a group of students would rarely be allowed to go to the movies, lists were made. Or… they would give us permission to go out in the city, a group of people, seven-eight students at a particular time. We could stay out until 10:00 at the latest, we weren’t allowed to stay out later than that.
Aurela Kadriu: Did you go to the cinema?
Zenun Çelaj: Yes, I went at that time… I wore shoes for the first time in Prizren (laughs). Shoes… I’ve told my friends and now they laugh and make fun of me over this. When I went to buy shoes… because I got the scholarship for the first time, I had taken a lot of money since I needed to pay for the dormitory in Prizren.
I went to the market where they were selling used things, I saw a pair of shoes that seemed in better condition to me. The old man who was selling them to me swore that only an old man had worn them, no one else, to show that they were in a good condition, Now, when I came to Prishtina, not that year, but the next year, for the first time we went to buy new shoes, they were very expensive…
Aurela Kadriu: New.
Zenun Çelaj: Yes new, but also buying them in the shop was much more expensive than having them made at saddlers. There was Gojan, he was killed on June 12, Serbians killed him in his own house. His house was behind the restaurant Rugova, there’s a house there, Pjata, the restaurant, the owner of that restaurant. He had his own saddler shop, and I got them there. Narrow toe shoes were in, my feet were wide like a bear, like a monkey.
I wore them to show off. I walked from Normale to here, when we got into the cinema, I was with my friends, I took them off because they were too narrow. Cinema Rinia, it’s in front of here, it isn’t far from here. I took them off, but I couldn’t wear them after. It was winter, it was around January or February. So, I walked from here to Normale with socks on ice (laughs).
Aurela Kadriu: What kind of movies did you watch, do you remember?
Zenun Çelaj: No, I forgot. We mostly watched cowboy movies at that time. I don’t remember which one it was. I thought you said that it sounds like a movie because when I told my children these events, I wanted to tell them to learn because life isn’t easy, they said, “Father, are you telling us a movie?” (laughs)
Aurela Kadriu: A very interesting story. I wanted to talk about the environment in the school more. Now, you have experienced Normale in all its forms…
Zenun Çelaj: Yes, that’s true.
Aurela Kadriu: What was Normale like in Pristina?
Zenun Çelaj: The building of Normale, I don’t know if you know, it was built in ‘47, ‘48 as far as I know and read, it was supposed to be a center where agents that were to be sent to Albania would be trained, UDB at that time. Then, in the meantime, politics changed and there was no need to send agents there, or children, so what they did was they turned it into a school, Shkolla Normale.
So a part of that facility, because it’s a big facility, the one now doesn’t have an additional part, except where AUK [American University in Kosovo] is. That part was the dormitory, the other part was the school, the classes. And behind that, the one that is in the middle of them was the canteen where we ate, behind, there are two small facilities behind, I don’t know if you’ve seen them, teachers and director stayed there.
In the dormitory where the students stayed the rooms were big. I don’t know how they are now, that it has become a university. But then, for example, around 30 students stayed in one room. There were military bunk beds. The bathrooms had water taps to wash our faces and so on. While the showers were in the bathroom where we took showers in an organized way. Students of the year… this happened later because in the beginning we used to bathe in the hamam that isn’t used now. They began to reconstruct it, but it isn’t being reconstructed.
Aurela Kadriu: Really?
Zenun Çelaj: Yes. We used to come from there in a row, 20-30 people, we bathed and came to Normale during summer and winter (laughs).
Aurela Kadriu: What was the hamam like? It seems very interesting to me. I’ve never… I still haven’t met anyone who bathed in a hamam.
Zenun Çelaj: Yes. It was… There was a round part, the water came from the taps up there. One part was for men, the other for women. They would turn on the water, you had no control. The men who turned it on would yell, “I’ll turn on the water now, be careful because it’s cold at first.” And so on (laughs). Then they made that because it was troublesome… we were 400-500 people, and only 20-30 people could bathe in the hamam. So they made those showers in the basement.
Aurela Kadriu: Wow, so interesting. What was the classroom like?
Zenun Çelaj: The classrooms, most of the students were men. In my generation there were five years of school, I came in the third year. I came sometime around March ‘57. There were around six-seven girls. Now I can’t count them, but there were around 35-36 people in the classroom. There were classrooms which didn’t have girls at all. In my classroom, there were more, there were around six-seven girls, no more.
Aurela Kadriu: Did you think about getting into journalism while you were in Normale?
Zenun Çelaj: No, I didn’t even dream of becoming a journalist. All… my dream was to become a teacher, I even remember who came. Musa Murtezai was the deputy editor-in-chief at Rilindja at that time. Later he was the editor-in-chief of the first Albanian television. Later he was Fadil Hoxha’s chief of staff in Belgrade.
He had come to Normale, not just to Normale, but to all high schools in Kosovo and talked to Albanian language teachers. They would tell him if they had any talented kids in class, prove it with essays and that’s it. I was proposed to by my teacher, Demush Shala…
Aurela Kadriu: Sorry to interrupt you, you started to work at Rilindja before you started to study journalism?
Zenun Çelaj: I never studied journalism, I studied Albanology.
Aurela Kadriu: Ah, the other day you mentioned you studied…
Zenun Çelaj: Yes, before I started studying. Before even graduating from Normale, a month before I had to take the graduation exam as it was called at that time. Now I don’t think there is such a thing…
Aurela Kadriu: There is.
Zenun Çelaj: Is there? I know once they stopped doing that. Or twice?
Aurela Kadriu: Yes.
Zenun Çelaj: No, back then, we had six or seven exams. We had written and oral exams in front of a commission which didn’t come from the school. It came from, there wasn’t a ministry back then, but from the Secretariat of Education. And, so he came and called us. Now we were learning for the graduation exam, they called us in for tutoring, back then we called these famous trainings, tutoring. In Rilindja that is in front of the museum, the road that separates them, it was a court for a while, now it’s the Ministry of Diaspora, on the right side…
Aurela Kadriu: In the ‘60s?
Zenun Çelaj: ‘60s. They held the classes there and after it was done they said, “We will let you know who got accepted and who didn’t.” We had written and oral exams after those lectures. I got a letter to Shkolla Normale, “You have been accepted, but you have to write a request letter.” I didn’t think I could be a journalist because I idolized that profession.
With Nehat Islami, I don’t know if you know him? He was in gymnasium, but even though he was younger than me, he wrote in elementary school and then in gymnasium. He was hired to prepare the children’s pages in Rilindja, the daily one. So he was very comfortable there even though he was a kid. And he said, “Do you know you got accepted?” I said, “Yes, but I will not write the request.” He said, “Why not?” “I’m not made for that job.”
He had made the request in my name. So I didn’t even write the request to become a journalist. And I got the invitation, “You’re accepted.” So I accepted it. It was my duty and in the meantime I got a scholarship to go… at that time whoever got scholarships in the Secretariat, I’ll say the Ministry of Education, even though it wasn’t called so. They sent you work wherever they could, not wherever you wanted.
They had appointed me to go to Brodosan near Dragash to become a teacher, since that’s what I was studying. The late Asllan Fazlija, an amazing man, editor-in-chief at Rilindja. He called me, “Çuni!” That’s how they used to call me, “What obligations do you have?” I said, “I have to go because I got the call.” Because I got the call to go to that service. He said, “Don’t go, I’ll take care of it.” I don’t know what he did, I never got another call.
Aurela Kadriu: Did you want to become a teacher?
Zenun Çelaj: I was stuck. I wanted to become a teacher but then I started thinking about journalism. Of course it was more attractive, in the city, the salary was four times better than the teacher’s. As a journalist, my salary was four times higher than the teacher who suggested that I be a journalist. When he asked me, Demush Shala, he said, “Zenun, how much do you get paid?” I knew how much he got paid, I said, “I am embarrassed to tell you.” “Why?” “I don’t want to tell you.” I told him, and he was surprised. In the meantime he also came to work there (laughs).
Aurela Kadriu: How did you start? Did you immediately start as a journalist?
Zenun Çelaj: As a journalist. Rilindja had its own work system and way of recruiting journalists, it was an institution. I say this, not only because I worked there all those years, but Rilindja was like that indeed. At first, they would send you to the marketplace… the report was on the prices today in the Pristina market, how much are the onions, potatoes, this and that.
Then to report on accidents, where the accident happened, where the other, this happened here, this and that happened. Then, covered trial sessions. They were simple reports, at the time the journalists were not allowed or the newspaper to write commentary or editorials. But it seems I proved to be successful quite fast, because I was working hard to compensate for the fact I never gave serious thought to journalism. I covered political events, but only those I was interested in, not anything else.
In journalism, there is a saying, “Journalists should know a bit of everything” and then someone else added, “The journalist is an ignorant… a multidimensional ignorant”. So, he knows a bit of everything, but nothing in depth. (laughs). Yes.
Aurela Kadriu: What were the first visits on the field like? You were still new to Pristina and you visited the market…
Zenun Çelaj: I don’t know how useful these are to you but I will tell you everything as if for myself. For two years at that time, journalists weren’t allowed to do much reporting from the field, especially not alone, beginners weren’t allowed to sign their full names. You could only put your last name if it was a topic that you wrote well. To be put on the first pages of the newspaper, you had to get four-five years experience as a journalist. This is how it was. In the beginning, we went with a journalist who was more experienced so they could see how you worked and eventually find another topic.
Aurela Kadriu: Let’s continue talking about when you went with more experienced journalists.
Zenun Çelaj: Yes. There was Mustafë Rushiti, he now went to America… he followed up with the Assembly of Kosovo at that time, with the socio-political organizations, as we used to call them. So, the Communist Association, Socialist Association. These usually were appointed to more experienced, more trained journalists. And I often had to go with them. One day, it was summer, maybe in ’63, when we entered the Assembly, people had gone on their breaks, and Mustafa was devious. Even though he was, as we said then, he was in line, he was very devious.
Aurela Kadriu: Excuse me, what does in line mean?
Zenun Çelaj: From the party line. He respected the party line (laughs). And we went from one office to the other, he knew who was in which office, he opened the offices to find material somewhere so he could write about it. And… but I didn’t find anything, so I came back to the office. The editor, “Do you have anything to write?” “I don’t,” I said, “ I will go to the swimming pool.” There was a swimming pool on the way to Llukar. You know where Medresa is, it was there toward the end of the village. It was the only swimming pool in the city.
I was hanging out there, shortly, I went there to swim and tan. And Abdyl Bunjkau was there, a journalist at Zani i Rinisë, the only one who got paid at Zani i Rinisë, because he was very funny and he used to make caricatures for Rilindja, his section was called Anza [Wasp]. He said, “Zenun, why are you here?” “Why Esad, what happened?” Now, jokingly I said, “I came to see if someone will drown so I can find something to write because I didn’t find a topic.”
On Sunday that section was published in Rilindja, he had drawn the poor and me… well my caricature, “Why did you come?” “I came to see if someone will drown so I can write some news for the newspaper.” (laughs)
Aurela Kadriu: Do you have this caricature?
Zenun Çelaj: I didn’t save it. Back then, as I said, I didn’t know how to save anything, but it would be found, it’s in the newspaper somewhere.
Aurela Kadriu: In ‘61?
Zenun Çelaj: In ‘63, or it could be in ‘62. But I mean, it’s the beginning years.
Aurela Kadriu: Did you then profile as a journalist in any particular sector? How did it go?
Zenun Çelaj: Well, as I said, there was a system back then. Then they appointed me to follow up with social and political organizations at the municipality level. And again I think I was successful because I worked really hard since I didn’t believe in myself because I hadn’t thought of doing this before. And then they appointed me to big events. I remember once, one of the events I remember. Fadil Hoxha was going, I forgot which one, I think July 9 was considered the day of Kosovo’s uprising. It wasn’t another day because July 7 was for Serbia, July 13 for Montenegro… I forgot the others, thank God the time to not remember them came.
And they told me to go and follow up with Fadil Hoxha in Carralevë. They say that the first rifle was shot in Carralevë and Fadil Hoxha got in front of a Italian patrol, he killed them, there used to be a memorial. I went there, they asked me to take pictures. I had a camera, it was simple, but the editorial office gave me a Flexaret. It was like a box like this {shows with his hands}, you had to look up so the object you wanted to photograph would be reflected. A photograph that has circulated for years, Fadil Hoxha speaking in front of people and the memorial. I mean, in that report, it was the main report which I was proud of. Doors opened there, a better perspective.
Aurela Kadriu: How… Later I would like you to tell me when the Rilindja offices moved to the city.
Zenun Çelaj: Before coming to Rilindja, before I started learning…
Aurela Kadriu: Before coming to the Press Palace.
Zenun Çelaj: No, as I said, here was…
Aurela Kadriu: Before you came to Rilindja.
Zenun Çelaj: Okay. The editorial office of Rilindja moved around, when it came from Prizren, because it first started in Prizren, in ‘45 it moved to Pristina. Provincial institutions brought Rilindja and the Radio Prishtina at that time. Rilindja initially… as they told me and as it is written in its history, now it’s the parking lot in front of the Assembly, facing the museum. There’s a huge parking lot there, the houses were torn down, you don’t remember… do you remember the shops, the buildings near the street?
Aurela Kadriu: Yes, they’re still there.
Zenun Çelaj: No, they were near the street. There were buildings, unfortunately they were torn down because back then there was an architecture of Turkish towns, the older ones aren’t anywhere. It was there, then it was in the street that was korzo, that took you to the old post office, the summer garden was there, and in the meantime it got bigger, two or three offices weren’t enough and they moved to that building, the one that used to be a prison. It was a prison during great Albania time, they moved there. It was an old building, luckily it hasn’t changed. They changed the facade, it is more beautiful now, they painted it, but not the architecture, it hasn’t changed. It has changed inside…
Aurela Kadriu: Is it, sorry to interrupt, is it the building with a lot of glass?
Zenun Çelaj: No, it doesn’t have glass. It only has some windows like…
Aurela Kadriu: Curved?
Zenun Çelaj: You know where the museum is…
Aurela Kadriu: I know exactly where you mean, but there are a few buildings in a row there. I want to know, is it one with big windows?
Zenun Çelaj: In the beginning of the street, a low-rise building. It was built more recently, it doesn’t belong to that area. Just a little while before we moved from Rilindja, there was, rotation, that’s what the machinery where the newspaper was made was called… while that building is further up, it has an old architecture and it would be a miracle if someone could stop construction of other buildings where this is, the parking lot, but to be turned into a park so the building behind would be seen. It’s the Agency of Statistics, or I don’t know what it is now.
Aurela Kadriu: Yes, the Agency of Statistics is very near the museum, they’re in front of each other.
Zenun Çelaj: Yes, this is it.
Aurela Kadriu: I think it’s a heritage protection agency or something…
Zenun Çelaj: Here I’ve seen that it says the Ministry of Diaspora, I didn’t go in… at some point it was the Minor Offenses Court.
Aurela Kadriu: Yes, yes. After you started working did you move anymore?
Zenun Çelaj: No, we didn’t move from there until we moved to the Press Palace.
Aurela Kadriu: Do you remember it? Because probably while you were in Rilindja you discussed that you’re moving.
Zenun Çelaj: Yes, we knew. Even the Palace has a history. In several places, its foundations were laid, but only the foundations, but never constructed. One of them was here where the Boxing Club is, near the tunnel, behind it, Flora Brovina has some offices there…
Aurela Kadriu: It was the Mother Teresa Association, now it is called Tophane.
Zenun Çelaj: No, Tophane is way down, this is a bit up. I don’t know if you recall the library that used to be there, Hivzi Sylejmani Library, a bit on the side…
Aurela Kadriu: Closer to the street.
Zenun Çelaj: Closer, but no, you entered a yard and there was an old building. It’s been a while since I was there, to tell you the truth, since the war I did not go. There we laid the foundations of Rilindja first, Fadil Hoxha laid them but it was never built. Then it was laid behind the stadium, not quite behind, but more to… at the flower post, and there too was not built. There they laid the foundations where the Grand Hotel is today, and always Fadil Hoxha would do the ceremony.
So it’s an interesting history. Imer Shkreli was a journalist at Rilindja, he would also write satirical texts. And he writes this satirical text about “The man with the foundational stones”, and describes all this without mentioning the name of Fadil Hoxha. That became a political problem and he was expelled from the party because he ridiculed him (laughs). And now, after all this time, Ismail Bajraj came as the head of Rilindja, he died, and he was also very serious, but he managed to push the project. The investments were secured and construction of the Media Palace started, perhaps in the ‘70s, ‘71. The data exists, but I can’t remember right now. It was completed in four-five years.
The editorial office moved there before because the Press Palace started construction later and there were underground waters, then until they fixed the interior. There were dilemmas to separate… I don’t know if you’ve ever been in that building?
Aurela Kadriu: Yes, I was.
Zenun Çelaj: Everything was open except where the elevators were. So we knew it was getting built and where we would be. Of course we were happy because the conditions weren’t good, small, dark rooms, because it used to be a prison, the rooms were really small and dark. Now we were moving to a very modern, very bright place. It had an air conditioner inside, there was no need to turn on anything for airing, it all went through the tubes and it would be distributed in the building.
Aurela Kadriu: Then when you moved to the building, the moment… was it divided in sections even then? So the culture journalists…
Zenun Çelaj: Yes, yes, yes. The inside organization… those divisions still exist, they’re almost classic. Now, it was different but back then it was divided into domestic politics, foreign policy, economy, culture, sports, entertainment pages, children pages, pages for municipalities, capital page. So, these were the divisions, it was a unit, but there were divisions. There were foreign politics, domestic politics, culture, sport.
Aurela Kadriu: Do you remember the inauguration day? Was there an inauguration?
Zenun Çelaj: There wasn’t.
Aurela Kadriu: You just started?
Zenun Çela: We just started. Actually we didn’t start in the building, the Palace, we started in the building in front of it where TV 21 is, where the daily newspaper Zëri is. There’s a restaurant downstairs, but it used to be bookshops, the whole ground floor. On the middle floor there were offices and we had Rilindja‘s clinic because there was huge staff, there were around two-three thousand employees. In the meantime other editorial offices came in the Palace, not Albanian, so, Jedinstvo, Tan, then Zëri, Zani i Rinisë wasn’t part of Rilindja until much later, it was its own publishing house. Fjala, Gazeta e Pionerit, Shkëndija, Bati, and so on. In the meantime, they became part of Rilindja. It was called a journalistic publishing enterprise, these were in the frame of Rilindja as well. There was the bookshop network, there was the printing house and editorial office for the publication of non-school textbooks…