War
[Part of the interview cut out from the video: the interviewer asks the speaker to talk about her experiences during the war in 1999.]
Ola Syla: I remember when I was little, when I asked my mother to tell me stories, I’d say, “Mom, tell me about the war in your time, because we have nothing to tell about now? Nothing is happening, and you most certainly have what to tell, there was a war back then and what was it like to survive the war?” And I will never forget when she told me, “Oh my daughter, a time will come when you get tired of everything and you find freedom in war. Then you will find yourself more free and comfortable in war than to stay closed at home, or to live through the violence that the regime commits.” And in year ’99 I remember I was in the apartment in Dardania where I am today, and the bombing started. All day long my husband and sons would stay locked in the house, it was I who went out to get supplies. I would buy bread, flour, oil, sugar, thinking that we would stay home, we did not dare go out, so children would at least have what to eat. We filled the freezer to the brim, there was no more…it wouldn’t fit any more bread or anything. You know we were afraid. It never crossed our minds that we would get out of our home and leave everything.
But a moment in the morning arrived when we couldn’t stay anymore, paramilitaries began wandering around the apartments. They started knocking on the doors, shouting in the entrances, and then we were not safe anymore. And one day, it was most likely, it was Bajram and I wanted to go out before it was over… I am that kind of person that has those feelings although it was very difficult. I mean, one day before we left home I cooked the Bajram lunch, even though it is not a custom for Bajram I opened a bottle of wine, and got together my husband, my two sons. We sat at the table, we ate the Bajram lunch, and I thought that I should have a toast with juice therefore I opened a bottle of wine which I was saving for special occasions. I opened it, we filled our glasses and I forced them to stand up, to clink the glasses and make a vow that in the next Bajram we would all be together at this table, safe and sound! And we did this and the following day we packed…
It was very interesting, that feeling that I am telling you about. My sister-in-law who had left a couple of days before me, phoned me from Macedonia and told me, “Ola please, dress up well! Dress well, tidy up yourself, put make-up on and put on your best looking clothes. Because if you are dressed up well and you’re looking good, it will be easier to cross through check points.” So it was like, if there was a woman from the village, ignorant, or uneducated, then they would harass her to the end. While a woman who is, or looks more emancipated, they had some consideration. Now this was something that old women say, “The one who’s being killed, holds on to foam.” And we were trying to do everything to save our lives, and that’s what I did. My father-in-law who came with us and most likely he thought he would be safer with us because we had elder children, and he came to us and said, “Anywhere you go, I am coming with you.”
And the following day, nearly everyone in the building, we got ready, as if we were going to a wedding. We got in, took the basic things we had and we left. We didn’t know where we were going, but we wanted to run away from Pristina, go abroad somewhere. The main goal was to get to Macedonia because we heard that people could go to Macedonia and could find shelter there, and so we began our journey.
When we arrived to the street where you can either take the turn to Brezovica, or you can continue the road to Skopje, we ran into a checkpoint, whether they were soldiers or paramilitary, I can’t remember now, but they were dressed as soldiers. And they, as we were the last ones in a line of 25 cars, they stopped our car last and my husband rolled down the window. When he rolled down the window, he started hitting my husband with the butt of the gun. I was sitting in the front, the only woman, while my sons and my father-in-law were in the back. Before we had left I had thought, if by any chance they were to take away my sons I will throw myself to the policeman, he would get scared of me and he would kill me and that way I will not see when he takes away my sons, and that’s what I was going to do. But what happened was that he came towards my husband’s window and my husband opened the window thinking that it was a routine check, which we must go through, and he started hitting him with the butt of the machinegun. And he started talking in Serbian shouting and saying, “What are you thinking?” “You want to run away from Kosovo, my children to get poisoned here, my children to be killed here!”
And my husband curled up and he started hitting him so much that I was afraid that he’s hurt so much and there would be no one to drive the car afterwards. My father-in-law was old, my sons who were still minors, we would just remain there, we would have to start walking on foot or else, we did not know what to do. And per usual, I, Ola who fears no one, I opened my door, got out and turned to him above the car, and I addressed him in perfect, very good Serbian and told him, “Why are you hitting him? You’re both hitting him, and you’re telling him ‘Go!’ Stop. While you’re hitting him, he won’t be able to leave. Wait, move, we’ll get in the car and we’ll go to where we’re heading.” And when he saw me speaking Serbian and I was dressed so well that I think I had never dressed better than that day, indeed he stopped and said, “Then head towards Albania.” And they made us go through Shtërpcë, Brezovica, towards the Sharr Mountains.
I can’t describe the experience that we went through those mountains. At the moment when they stopped us and started beating my husband, all those cars scattered, like ants. I mean we were left in the middle of the street, only our car. Simply we got off the car line, we got off from everyone, we were left alone. As we were passing through the road, we didn’t know the road, because everything was mixed up, smoke all over the place. People were passing with, I didn’t know if they were… I just got confused, it was a kind of horror. It was around eleven, twelve noon, but it seemed to me like it was dark, smoke all around.
When we arrived in Shtërpcë, I believe that to this date passing through that road, was… it is hard because it is a part where there are fewer Albanians, let alone during wartime. But I don’t know, we just drove straight without stopping, and when we arrived in the Sharr Mountains there was a long line. I met with some people who were not in the same car line we were in, police stopped us again and asked, “Where are you heading to, where are you going to?” We said, “We don’t know. We were expelled from our apartments, we are out, now we will go anywhere you tell us to, what to do…” And one of the policemen told me, “Why are you going to Albania? Once you go there, it will be worse than here.” I just shrugged my shoulders and had no words, no strength to speak or anything. Simply I was just looking for a way forward to run away, to save ourselves.
And with thousands of difficulties, we got to the border. When we arrived to the border with Albania, there was no one from Prizren there. Our car was the first one to stop in front… in front of the border. We stayed there for half an hour, there was no one there, we did not dare go out, go in, or talk. We remained there because we simply didn’t know what to do. At one point a customs official came out and I got all mixed up, I didn’t know any more if they were speaking Albanian, Serbian, or what was he. They all seemed the same.
And simply, when we stopped before the border, he came and requested documents from us. He requested documents from us, I told my husband in Albanian, “Agim, if he asks for money, please let’s give it to him, let’s just get out of here.” He answered in Albanian and said, “Don’t worry, we don’t need your money, just give us your documents, all you have.” As I got down… to bend to get the passports out of the bag, I told my husband, “Give him the ID cards, don’t give him the passports.” But he did not let us pass through until he took every paper we had in the bag. He opened my bag, took out ID cards, took out the passport, took out business cards, I mean, everything that was a written piece of paper, he took it from us. Same from my sons, from my husband, from everyone. And we got out. The road between borders, from the Kosovo border to the Albanian border to get to the other side to Kukës, has been for me the longest road I could ever experience or imagine in my life. When we were driving in our car, I mean in that border area, it seemed to me that the earth, the mountains were moving underneath, while we were getting somewhere, but I didn’t know where we were going to.
At the Albanian border I saw something shining, it was them… as we were entering, we were the first ones to have crossed the border. It seems like they were different journalists, who were taking pictures with their flashlights or who knows. And when we entered, we opened our doors and everyone went out their way. My husband set on one side, the boys on one side, the father-in-law on one side and we all stopped, we did not know what we were doing. Some journalists came, they asked us if knew English, I told them, “My son knows. Valon, the eldest ”He did not want to talk, he did not want to answer anything, basically he was not ready to say anything. Then we went, we stopped and they asked us where we want to go. Fortunately my sister was living and her husband was working in Tirana, and we decided to go to Tirana.
When we arrived there, a man asked, “Where do you want to go?” We said, “Well, to Tirana.” “Don’t take a chance to leave tonight because it is very dangerous, it’s a long road, it’s dark. Just find a shelter somewhere in Kukës.” I didn’t know anyone in Kukës to go to, and so we went to a shop to get some water, and to take a little break. To tell you the truth maybe I went there during the ’90s. In ’95 I went to visit my sister in Albania, but I only knew Tirana, I had no one in Kukës. And we stopped close to a shop, where a family said, “I am sorry, I don’t have where to place you because I have a very small apartment. But I can let you stop here tonight to stay in your car, in my garden where you will be safe.” When it started getting dark, it seems that after all they felt sorry and around eight o’clock in the evening, they invited us to go into their home.
After half an hour the flow of refugees started coming after us. I mean they were of Kosovar origin and seemingly the families with whom they had contact started arriving, started coming. The house was filled with people. At one moment I got out of the room, just to walk a bit because I hadn’t for a while… I had been sitting in the car. I heard a crying voice, a man’s voice, something like a mourning cry. And I got scared, what if… what happened, what is going on. When I got inside I saw my husband. He was crying like a child and I just stopped and looked at him, the two boys were curled up and snuggled next to him. My father-in-laws chin was shaking and he was looking at his crying son. I just turned and said, “Why are you crying? Why are you screaming?” He said to me, “What do you mean Ola, can’t you see that everything we had, everything we made in life, we left it.” I said, “What does it matter? We have brought up our sons, you have your husband, [slip of the tongue, “father”] your family. And what about me, who I don’t know… (cries) where my mother is, where my family is and you should be happy that at least your close family is with you and you are safe.”
Then the head of the house entered and said to my husband, “You have the greatest wealth there can be in life. You have a wife burrnore.” (cries) So it came back… my mother’s word, which she told me when I was a child, “My son!” So, I’ve always taken it into account that if I am going through hardship, through difficult times in life, I must be, I must stay strong to overcome those problems, to overcome the challenges that life brings.
When the evening arrived and we had to go to sleep and I don’t know why, to this date, the woman of the house took me in to sleep in the room with her. And I lied down to sleep with her, she brought me some food to eat {wipes her tears}. She had made a stew with chicken skin, so there was not meat either, there was just skin. It was some kind of çervish but my throat had closed, I couldn’t eat or anything. I saved myself, but I was now worried about my family – where is my mother, where is my ill sister, where is my brother, what will happen, when we’ll we get back, what will happen now!
And she begged me, “Come on, wash your hands and eat some food!” At that time I had much, as it was a custom to bring golden jewelry and I had saved it, and all my bracelets were golden. Everything golden that I had, I had it under the sweater that I was wearing. And when I reached out my hand like this {reaches hands} to wash them, the gold showed up, and I immediately felt sorry for them because they were a really poor family. You know, I saw it based on the place they offered and on the fact that they did not have food to give us, so just when I reached to wash my hands, I pulled down my sleeves, and she pretended she had not seen me. When we woke up in the morning, with what they had, she had bought us water, some bread, a little bit of cheese, two apples in a plastic bag for us to take on the road.
I asked my husband to leave them some money, we were using Deutschemark then, I said, “Agim, at least fifty euro,” we didn’t have more to give them because they saved us by letting us stay here, we calmed down, we had a rest, at least a little bit but she would not agree to take it. And then I had a very beautiful ring, the biggest I ever had. My brother-in-law had bought it for my 38th birthday and it had 38 stones. It was my dearest ring, the most beautiful. And so, the bride was pregnant (cries), and when I saw that she did not want to take money I took the ring and I gave it to her. “No, no,” she would not take it all. Then I pleaded with her, “Please, I want to give you this ring. Not to make up for your kindness to us, but I want you to give this ring as a present to the child whom you will give birth to. When it grows up, let it be a present from me, a remembrance from me.”
And we got out of there, we went to Tirana. My sister was waiting for us there, after some time we started going out to town to find out what has happened, where are they, where is everyone. And just before coming back, a little before the troops entered, the ground troops, I mean, the opportunity for us to return back, then I heard that my mother and sister are alive. She is in my brother’s apartment in Pristina. My brother has gone to France with his family, and to tell you the truth I got so relieved and at the first opportunity to come back, we requested to come back. No one wanted to, we had no wishes to go elsewhere, we wanted to go back to the country, because when they took all our documents, he said, “What are you worrying about? Why… why are you giving me all the documents, when you will not be coming back anyway?” And very convincingly I told him, “What do you mean not coming back? I will come back in two weeks!” I did not come back in two weeks’ time (laughs), but I came back in around two months’ time. So to say we got out around the end of March and we came back straight around 29 June.
It was very interesting when we decided, I mean, we decided to come back at the first opportunity. But, the return was the greatest joy then. On the road we would meet with people whom we had not seen for several… I would meet neighbors, “Where are you? What have you been doing?” I mean, people whom even though I didn’t know, or knew them very little, felt very close. When we came back, we passed through Prizren, we could hear music, we could hear people walking in the streets, cheering… It was a great pleasure when we arrived around ten, eleven at night. We got into our home, the door was locked, not broken. And I thought that no one had broken in and I got my key to open the door, when I realized that lock had been broken, it had been changed. Someone had been living in my apartment. And we opened the door, we got in. We broke it, I broke the door to get into my own home and when we got inside, it was chaos.
The house was full of other people’s belongings that were not mine: clothes, technical stuff [gadgets], different alcoholic drinks, many, many, many, something like… I just couldn’t differentiate my things from the foreign things that were there. The children were petrified, they could not stay there and since I knew that children are… my mother is in Pristina, in my brother’s apartment in Ulpiana. I told my husband to send them over there so we could sort out the house. And I took all those things that did not belong to me, I took them and put them in the hallways next to the lift. And as I was taking those things out, I was saying to myself, “Oh look this is Fetija’s vacuum cleaner. Oh this belongs to this person.” I mean everything belonged to the neighbors, they had taken and gathered everything and then classified them to take things that they needed, or they didn’t. Or maybe we unexpectedly returned (laughs) and they did not get the chance to take all the things.
And I took those things out and started to clean up the house. I had missed going out to my balcony which I love and always when I have something, when I want to think about something or when I have to make a decision about something, I usually go out on the balcony, I smoke a cigarette and make myself a [cup of] coffee and go out there. And more or less when I made my house a home, I cleaned it and got rid of… it felt like it had a completely different smell, you know when someone else lives in and simply nothing resembles my home. And we relaxed, my husband and I, and at around 12, midnight, we opened a beer each, we found them in the fridge. The beer was unopened so we weren’t afraid to drink it (smiles). And we sat in the balcony, and it was then, every night since we had returned, a helicopter was flying around… what do I know, it was overseeing the town. The helicopter was not very low, but low enough for example to hear its noise and it was illuminating with big headlights.
English soldiers were here. They were all somehow small, young… when we used to meet them, we always greeted them in our English, “How are you?” Whatever we had with us we shared it with them. At one point, happy that I had returned home again, sitting and having a beer with my husband, I saw the helicopter illuminating with the big headlights. And happy as I was, I turned towards the helicopter and {kisses fingers on her hand as sign of greeting} I sent him a kiss. And he blinked the light from above (smiles). It means… my husband said, “How come he saw you up there (smiles).” I mean to say, they were very good times.
I remember Kurrizi when I went out the following day, all the shops had been broken, there was nothing left in them. You found blood, clothes, you found different bandages, it was a living horror. But interestingly, within a week it was cleared up, sorted out, windows were fixed. Everything started coming to its place, families, aid, we started going out to get aid. And somehow, as if we were getting back to normal life, employment started. Five years, so from the year ’99 to the year 2005 it was a period when we really hoped a lot. When everything was going well. Young people were all employed, if you only knew English a little, you had a chance of employment, age or anything else did not matter. My son got employed as a journalist with an international media, it was Media Action International. My husband returned to Kosova B, he started working there. Driton began… he was senior student in high school, his last year in high school. I was at home, trying more or less to get back to normality. And in the year…