Xhemajl Petrovci

Pristina | Date: November 28, 29, 2018 | Duration: 179 minutes

‘I am that Xhema from Prishtina.’ He said, ‘Are you a shehirli [townsman] or an Albanian?’ An Albanian shehirli, imagine? I understood what he was getting at, his question was, ‘Are you a Turk or an Albanian? I said, ‘I am an Albanian from the shehir [town].’ ‘Hey, I am asking you straight in Albanian!’


Aurela Kadriu (interviewer), Donjetë Berisha (Camera)

Xhemajl Petrovci was born in Pristina in 1949. He completed the Technological High School in 1967. In 1971, he worked at the Elektro Kosova energy company. Throughout the ‘80s, he worked at the Ramiz Sadiku construction company and later as an independent electrician. Today, he lives with his son and nieces in their family house in Pristina.

Xhemajl Petrovci

Part One

Aurela Kadriu: Shall we start… maybe just tell us something about your early childhood memories. How do you remember your childhood?

Xhemajl Petrovci: My childhood… As a kid, we stayed in the neighborhood all the time, we played with other children. I know that we simultaneously learned Albanian, Turkish and Serbian. There were also Gorani in the neighborhood, so I also learned the Gorani language. I learned the Romani language the same way, because they used to come by here, and then we thought… I thought it was interesting. I always wanted to communicate in their own language, for example, the Romani language or Turkish, Serbian, and what do I know.

And of course I remember during my childhood what was really hard for us as children and those who left and moved to Turkey, with their family… horse drawn carriages, režnika were called those on the side, some clothes and things like this. Some things that they could not take with them, I know that they left to the neighbors, those of us who stayed here and I am convinced that the Gërguri family that lived here, here in front of us, none of them could speak Turkish. So they didn’t go because they were Turkish, but surely the pressure from different things took its course.

We almost suffered the same fate, we got what we used to call, visika, so they sent us visas from Turkey. That happened around ‘55- ‘56, but our luck, my brother was a soldier and when he came back from the army, he said, “We’re not going!” So we decided not to go. Otherwise, in this land all of us, eight children were born. Of course, the house has changed. From all of us, five have lived quite a long life, I mean, three of my sisters were gone early on. I mean, they died, one of them was five-six years old, the other one two-three years old, like this. Who knows what kind of diseases they had back then, but they were, I mean, earlier on. While the five of us, three brothers and two sisters, we were all alive till recently.

My oldest brother, died when he was 51 years old. While this year my older sister, and my older brother died, our age was close. And as children, how you get attached, brothers with one another, but also the fights between us in minutes and things like this. Now, from all us, just me and a sister who lives in England are still alive. My oldest sister was in America, when my brother got sick she came, he died, and she died after him. This, this is a story, I mean, my family’s story.

My father and my mother… my father lived over one hundred years, we don’t know exactly,  101-102 or 99-98. My mother, she also died quite early, after my brother died, she didn’t even try anymore. It was really hard on her, and since my brother’s death she never smiled again. And we used to tell her, “You have the rest of us, should we…” And it’s true that he was the oldest, and she loved him very much. He was an intellectual, he was a director for many years in Kosovo, Pristina. Ee, so they brought up five children quite… after them. 

Now I…  I also have five children, four girls and a boy. You saw my son [addresses the interviewer]. My oldest daughter lives here in Pristina, my youngest daughter as well, the middle ones, so the second and third daughter live in Germany since ‘93. I went there in 1993. I went there with my family as three people, and we came back as four people in ‘86, I didn’t like living broad. So, there was a crisis when I went, but it was the same when I came back, so I knew, but I couldn’t stay there any longer. We experienced war here…

Aurela Kadriu: Can you tell me how do you remember this neighborhood as a child, where were you… 

Xhemajl Petrovci: Well, when we came there at the beginning, at the bakery was Shyqri Begu’s house. It was a two-story house, but back then it seemed like a palace to us. Even with them… to see things at that time I know I got in front of the house… you see we are on the down side.  I used to go in front of my house and I used to see three-four mosques when the lamps used to turn on back then, and now you can’t see any of the mosques, which means all the houses were one-story houses. In ‘69 we built this house. My brother was financially better off, while my father and my other brother worked and built this house, but mostly my older brother. So, in this neighborhood, this house was more like… this and the one they used to call Pasjaqa’s house, and now our houses are lower than others… like this. 

Then, as a kid I remember, near Shyqri Begu’s house they built… I found it there, I mean I remember it, I don’t remember when it was built, but it is built with bricks, it’s there even today. Police of Pristina used to be there, I don’t remember that, I remember when Pristina’s boxing club was there, and club was called “Milicioner”, meaning with the police. There were Albanian boxers then others, there were also Serbs, and Roma and like this. The boxing club in that building was turned into a dormitory, some students used to sleep there, but very shortly.

After that it was The Office for the Publication of Texts of the Republic of Serbia, the branch in Pristina, that’s how it was called. Then it was the Provincial Body for Publishing Texts. In the meantime, I don’t really remember the years, the Media Palace was built and the Provincial Body for Publishing Texts moved there, and some people who worked there stayed, so like this, the Municipality took it there because it is quite a big building.

Aurela Kadriu: Is it the one at the beginning of the street?

Xhemajl Petrovci: Yes, one the left side…

Aurela Kadriu: The one that was with bricks, and the upper part was white, I think it was like that…

Xhemajl Petrovci: No, no it’s entirely built with bricks, burnt bricks. It is one of the old objects, I mean, in this part, Shyqeri Begu’s house was burnt and flattened, and they built the two buildings that are there. They were turned into the solidarity buildings, that’s how they called them, they used to give them away. There were also those, like this. That is on that side, on the other side {shows with his hands} the Kacallari’s Fountain used to be. That object is somewhere there. You couldn’t drink that water, just like the fountain at the Katër Llulla on the Bajram Kelmendi street, there was Katër Llulla, meaning, four springs, there were four pipes with water, and there was a stone trough which cows and horses used to drink from. And it isn’t… it wasn’t drinking water for people, wash things, but it was for animals. 

Çeklik’s Fountain was a good one. It is at the intersection at Dodona Theatre. Dodona Theatre was a house of culture, it used to be called Dom Kulture in Serbian.  A few activities were held there, some… people from the neighborhood were more active. Ibrahim Krajkova’s brother was there, I forgot his name, but I know that Ibrahim played roles there with Ramush Berisha and others that were involved in such activities. Sometime even concerts would be held there, small concerts, not like… like today. Ibrahim then continued with comedy and these things, while Ramush withdrew. It was a mixed neighborhood, but mostly, even today, are people who were born and raised here, I mean, there are very little from… who changed. Mostly some Serbian houses, who were Roma, who were most likely involved in war issues, they fled during the war, so like this. 

From here, from Çeklik or from here where you would go to was called Bregu [The Hill]. This hill was a little like a forest, before going to Taukbahçe on the right side. It was like a forest, I mean, there were all kinds of trees. I know at the time most people would go there during the summer, make fli, and stuff, some would go to Taukbahçe, some even further, to Gërrmia, I remember that people used to hang out there, I mean, it was common at the time. We had a lot of fun in these places. And I think that the Kacallar neighborhood, so Katër Llullat, Kacallari, this part here is quite old, I don’t know which one is older, and at that time the Muhaxheri neighborhood was also mentioned. There were, those are pretty old now too, but the beginning of the Muhaxheri neighborhood was at the mosque, at the roundabout, now there is like a city on its own there.

While here beneath the memorial, on the right side, Tophane, that was also an old neighborhood, and completely on the right side, the road to Pudjeva, not Kodra e Trimave, but on the flat side, it was called Hani i Dilit, so, at the end of the Posderka. That part was called Posderka. Llap’s Mosque and like this… 

Aurela Kadriu: What does Piosderka mean?

Xhemajl Petrovci: Prishtevka river…a?

Aurela Kadriu: What does Posderka mean?

Xhemajl Petrovci: Neighborhood. Posderka means “river” in Turkish, but I don’t understand, I can’t connect it. 

Aurela Kadriu: Near the river probably…

Xhemajl Petrovci: Something like that. The Prishtevka river was there, here where we are, Velusha was very close, and they eventually joined together, at Lakrishe, on the left side, and the one on the right side, they would join somewhere in Fushë Kosova, but down there, so in Vetërnik on the right side. And I that from… This building, Elektro Kosova that’s here… everything around there were gardens.

Aurela Kadriu: Where Elektro Kosova is, right?

Xhemajl Petrovci: Yes, from there, even Gradić Pejton [Peyton Place] as we call it, that too was a garden. That, downward from the building of Elektro Kosova, there too was a huge garden that belonged to the Army, there at the Lakrishtja… you know Lakrishtja and to the left there was a garden, it was private property, but this other one belonged to the Army, this… there was  also a White Spring, near Elektro Kosova that street… 

Aurela Kadriu: The White Spring, the King’s Spring as they call it now… 

Xhemajl Petrovci: No, no, the White Spring, the White Fountain was what it was called before, it had a lot of water, even after the war, it was there, I don’t know what happened to it. Up until… we used to raise animals, cows and sheep, someone would raise sheep, they mostly grazed where the Adem Jashari Barracks are, that part there used to be called Kuptim, or Kuptin, with “N”, something like that, maybe I’m wrong. I remember one of the shepherds, I mean, there was also Sabri Fejzullahu, Sabri was behind the bazaar, so, Posderka, because there was the river which was covered, I know that Posderka was that way.

And we often, the kids, should we take them to Taukbahçe, or to Kuptin, or often even to Matiqan, but Matiqan was always empty. Because as kids, as shepherds, as grass, you had to eat something, to have something green, do you understand me, here was a little more empty, there wasn’t even water where Mati is. On Taukbahçe’s side there was, while on Kupini’s side there was mostly garden and there was an orchard at the KPC, but it wasn’t there for long, I don’t know what they did, the Army took it, like this.

And I remember the train to Fushë Kosova had a few tunnels when… no, not tunnels but like bridges. And as kids we used to go underneath to hear how it passed over, like this, and the road was…The bridge was at Lakrishte from Kuptin. We used to let them free, because usually when animals are full, they go straight home, and we used to go back playing, like this, everybody’s cow would come home, two cows, three cows, depends, sometimes I used to have two. 

Where Grand Hotel is located, it was a bit like a hill, of course, as it is today, but back then from Grand and onwards a pit, a big pit, right to the end where Rilindja is…  leather was reworked in that area, and it had a terrible smell, you cannot imagine it. At the top, in front of Grand, there was a small marketplace that sold fruits. And the street that took you to the old shopping mall, somewhere there the road would connect to up there, near the park, I would take it to get home. 

Gërmia always… a big park of Kosovo’s population, I mean, yes also Kosovo’s, for May 1-2 used to go to Gërmia. Back then with saç, and stuff, and like this, because they cooked and took it. While on St. George’s day, Roma, but also others used to believe in something, they used to go to, to the Sultan Murat’s Türbe. I remember back then there used to be horse-drawn vehicles, not cars, I don’t know how, and the horse-drawn vehicles would carry people but there were also horse-drawn vehicles designated for carrying people, it was a little more bent down, and it fit ten-fifteen people and took them there.

They used to go early for St. George’s day. And as a kid I remember for St. George’s day  going to… to find nettle plants, to pluck them and hand them on the door. In this side, on the other side of the door, how do I know, at the yard door, but also inside. And your mother was supposed to wash you with those nettle plants, to spray water on you from the mill, do you understand, like this some, some… There used to be some stuff.

Aurela Kadriu: Was there a mill near you?

Xhemajl Petrovci: The mill was… Where the Technical School is, not the first road on the left, but on the second road was the river, so from Kolovica the river flowed where the mill was, it used to be called Bankovic’s Mill. Otherwise, that mill was last owned by Latifi-Godanci, it was Godanci’s, and then his sons were clockmakers, some… all kinds. Then it closed, when the river was covered up. Then they were compensated, all of the people whose yards were close to the canal, each bought the part in front, and they were compensated, and like this. 

And there were mills later, but of course electrical, there was Tortoshi’s Mill, here in Tophane where Bahollët have a bigger working place. On the other side, leading you to the cemetery, that narrow street, there was one at the beginning on the left side, the other one on the right side. I remember a mill, but it was probably the state’s, where Tre Sheshirat [Three Hats] are now, and the management had started, Novoberda, and I always remember some big rock there on the front.  Because who do I know maybe if the one inside would get damaged they would put this one, this is how I think now.

And of course there was wooden wagons, and iron, how would I know, with horses, with cows, with… that either brought the flour, or was waiting to take it, like this, they brought the grains to grind. That was also a little bit more… And the Army was from the Bank of Ljubljana, the one in front of Hotel Grand, where the rectorate and everything is uphill there were some horse barns, how do I know, but they were like barracks. 

So there were barracks, that later when the universities were opened, they were turned into dormitories. Because one of the objects… the rectorate is also like the heritage of that army. Even as a kid, I remember that we were always scared of the police, we were scared… of the police and the army.

Aurela Kadriu: When you would take your cows there?

Xhemajl Petrovci: Yes, and as a shepherd you wake up at 7:00, for example, you take the cows grazing and you eat, but as a kid until 12:00, you get hungry again, and on the way back home, we used to eat a little cabbage here, a tomato there, do you understand, other people’s gardens, you didn’t have your own. But we were in danger from the Army, and it was around Gradic Pejton, that’s how it used to be called, I don’t know whose garden it was, a very tough Roma. We never got in there, if we did it would be a big deal. And this is somewhat it.

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